At a recent Hanukkah cooking workshop , part of a series called Schvitzin’ in the Kitchen, we challenged ourselves to create a feast without the holiday’s mainstream American hit — the latke. Instead, we asked, what are the elements of that famous Ashkenazi Hanukkah staple that have made it a Hanukkah hallmark? Yes, a celebration of oil, but also of local winter cellar produce; maximal starch for warmth; garnishes for acidity, sweetness, and contrast; and techniques that inevitably involve many people, joining together to make light in darkness. In deconstructing the latke, we made a blueprint for another delicious fried tuber recipe that you can adapt to the starches, herbs, and oils that are produced near you. In Brooklyn, we used Japanese sweet potatoes; dill, parsley, and oregano; and sunflower, butternut squash, and pumpkin seed oils all produced in the Northeast. This makes a gorgeous platter of earthy grains and colorful, sweet starches, topped with pops of flavor and h...
