Fried sweet potatoes with kasha, toum, and kimchi

At a recent Hanukkah cooking workshop, part of a series called Schvitzin’ in the Kitchen, we challenged ourselves to create a feast without the holiday’s mainstream American hit — the latke.  Instead, we asked, what are the elements of that famous Ashkenazi Hanukkah staple that have made it a Hanukkah hallmark?

Yes, a celebration of oil, but also of local winter cellar produce; maximal starch for warmth; garnishes for acidity, sweetness, and contrast; and techniques that inevitably involve many people, joining together to make light in darkness.

In deconstructing the latke, we made a blueprint for another delicious fried tuber recipe that you can adapt to the starches, herbs, and oils that are produced near you. In Brooklyn, we used Japanese sweet potatoes; dill, parsley, and oregano; and sunflower, butternut squash, and pumpkin seed oils all produced in the Northeast.

This makes a gorgeous platter of earthy grains and colorful, sweet starches, topped with pops of flavor and herbs. It could be a meal in itself, or a great vegan addition to a larger Hanukkah meal.

Whatever ingredients you use, this is a group project — don’t try it alone. (And let it be a spark for gathering)!

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